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Three unexpected things from WWI. WWI left behind a broken landscape: shell holes, trenches and soil sown with years of unexploded bombs. Today a forest blankets the battlefields.
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But it cloaks perhaps millions of dud shells, tens of thousands of bodies and one of the most toxic sites in France. The front lines crisscrossed the fields of Verdun for almost the duration of WWI. Some 60 million shells were fired during the month battle here from February to December That means that we probably have between seven and eight million shells that did not explode on the battlefield of Verdun," said Guillaume Moizan, 34, a local historian and guide.
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The destruction was total. A postwar report on these battlefields described the land as: "Completely devastated.
Impossible to clean. Human life impossible.
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The French government's response was to declare vast tracts of northern France off limits, creating a "zone rouge" or red zone. Much of the rest was eventually forested. Planted with German pine from the Black Forest as part of war reparations, the forest of Verdun was, from its inception, a symbol of healing and commemoration. The objective was more to give a sense of production to this landscape destroyed by war.
Today it holds a different role. Bunkers and trenches hide among the trees, jutting out of the undergrowth, paying silent witness to the , French and German men who died here. The stony ruins of the area's nine villages, devastated during the war, lie dotted around the forest. One of them, Fleury, changed hands 16 times during the battle.
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